Archive | Silvia’s Trays

Bits and Brownies

What Makes a Woman?

Good question and terrific article in the NYT Sunday Review by Ms. Elinor Burkett, commenting about the outstanding Mr. Bruce Jenner transformation in to Ms. Caitlyn Jenner.
http://www.nytimes.com/2015/06/07/opinion/sunday/what-makes-a-woman
Ms. Burkett, very elegantly and eloquently exposes many notions I have been pondering about and wanting to put down on paper myself, but I have not being able to properly articulate.

What I’ll do instead is urge you to read the article and with enthusiasm welcome Ms. Jenner
to the alluring but somewhat complicated world of women.  A world made not only of pretty nail polish, tight spanx and never ending styles of uncomfortable shoes created to torture large and small feet, but also a world of tired women forced to pump milk in public bathrooms due to the lack of adequate maternity leave, a world of no equal pay and no equal employment opportunity,
a world that most of the times demands to grow a pair in order to fashionably survive in.
Thankfully I hear Caitlyn has kept all her necessary bits in place.

I also want to warn and urge Ms. Jenner, in the likely event the corset shall becomes too tight,
or a bad hair day should strike, the stache start to show, or God forbid, 6 months from now,  shall she wake up to be, not on the beautifully and immaculately styled cover of Vanity Fair but back on the less flattering front of the Enquirer, to instantaneously invite the girls over for a “cook and bitch session”, and share with them her newly acquired womanly sorrows and my gooey, out of this world chocolate brownies. They are known to put a stop to all sorts of dramas, put some hair on the chest  and cure the blues every time.  Smartly us women know, sugar and spices is what we are made of.

chocbrownies

Chocolate Brownies
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Servings Prep Time
48 squares 20
Cook Time
25
Servings Prep Time
48 squares 20
Cook Time
25
Chocolate Brownies
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Print Recipe
Servings Prep Time
48 squares 20
Cook Time
25
Servings Prep Time
48 squares 20
Cook Time
25
Ingredients
  • 375 g Butter
  • 375 g dark chocolate
  • 6 large eggs
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
  • 500 g sugar
  • 225 g all-purpose flour
  • 4 tablespoons cocoa powder
  • 1 teaspoon salt
Servings: squares
Instructions
  1. Preheat the oven at 350 F and line the base and sides of a 13 x 9 baking pan with parchment paper.
  2. Put the chocolate and the butter in to a metal bowl and place it on a pot of simmering water, making sure the water is not touching the bottom of the bowl. Melt the chocolate and the butter slowly mixing from time to time with a rubber spatula. Careful not to get water in to the bowl. Set aside to cool off.
  3. Beat the eggs and sugar well with the aid of a kitchen aid. I like to use a rubber spatula attachment. Add the vanilla extract. Slowly add the chocolate and butter. Fold in the flour, cocoa powder and salt by hand making sure to incorporate all and mix gently until uniform in color.
  4. Pour in to the lined baking pan and cook in the oven for 25 minutes. The center should be still a little soft and gooey. Place on a rack to cool off. Cut in 48 squares.
Recipe Notes

You can add walnuts, coconuts, dried cherry hazelnuts, white chocolate chips, butterscotch , a shot of espresso, a hot of  rum, or even half a glass of red wine! YUM YUM YUM

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When things go OOPS in the kitchen.

There are glorious moments in the kitchen when things go exquisitely well and we picture our face,
in all its sweaty glory, on the cover of Bon Appétit and then, there is that slow motion, non returnable instant, when all goes terribly wrong. Every chef, every cook knows disaster can strike
in a split second.

We get distracted, we make mistakes, we make a mess, we don’t follow directions, or simply there is mechanical failure.  Even Julia Child was no stranger to dropping the occasional raw chicken or letting her flambé’ turn in to serious flames.

I’m no stranger to those “OOPS Moment” myself. I have for sure had my share of flat cakes, bland soups, raw chickens, dry breads, explosive blenders, and bloody fingers. I could go on for days. Luckily, no one has to know. That’s when I’m in the privacy of my own little kitchen.
And that’s when I always leave my self some extra time to either cook something new or run out for rotisserie kitchen.

However there are those times when I have to cook live and I only have 30 minutes to do it right.   I’m talking about this past weekend at the Audubon Greenwich, where I had the pleasure and the honor to be invited to do 3 cooking demonstrations during the Sustainable Farm Expo.
I was excited to work with fresh farm eggs, marinate and grill a yummy bavette steak, show how to home cure a salmon and use some great organic, local produce form the Westport Farmers Market.

poached

Poached egg. 3 minutes.

While the eggs and home cured salmon where smooth sailing, my mise for steak was not in place and when I went to cook the beautiful grass fed steak, the burners were not working and the grill pan was cold.

steakdemo

Bavette steak demo.

There is a nothing fun about 50 piercing eyes, including the ones of the butcher, staring at you and the hungry silence that descends during a cooking demo going south. But there is always a way to come back north. Luckily I had an electric pan in the back. The steak was saved and so was lunch.

Following are a few tips for when Murphy’s Law “If anything can go wrong, it will” rears it’s ugly head and my recipe for home cured citrus salmon.

  • Never try something new and don’t improvise or substitute ingredients when cooking for guests.
  • Prep everything ahead. I mean everything.
  • Make lists of what you will need. Don’t forget your list.
  • Even ovens with the best intentions may be off, but an oven thermometer will solve the mystery of the real temperature.
  • Hot liquids will explode in a blender. Cool everything off before pushing the start button.
  • Keep your knives sharp.
  • Try everything before serving and before cooking.
  • Salt is your friend.
  • Don’t panic. Think.
  • Make ahead some pizzas, a meat stew, meatballs, soups, a pasta-bake and freeze all for emergencies.
  • Never apologize. If you are cooking for someone you are doing him or her a favor. Whatever the out come is they should kiss the ground you walk on or at least do your dishes.
salmoncured

Home Cured Salmon.

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About Bavette

A Perfect Meal

Some pine for the perfect storm, I hunger for the perfect meal.

I spend hours of the day and sometimes of the night exploring and obsessing about ingredients and flavor combinations to create a flawless meal to share with people, no matter if I’m conceptualizing for one of my more intricate events or a laidback dinner with friends.
Some might think of it as OCD, I call it love for both scrumptious food and dedication to my guests.

Elegant, no frills, standing up, meat, vegetarian, kids, no kids, celebratory, winter, summer, only a nosh. The possibilities are endless.

Then, there are certain times in life when nothing will do but a steak.

When steak is king, a vast selection flows in to my brain while I go through the different textures, flavors and degrees of tenderness. Rib eye, sirloin, t-bone, dry aged, Fiorentina, Porterhouse, these are all cuts with merits and singular degrees of juiciness and oral pleasure.

steakchart

If I want  flavor and texture, one cut is firmly lodged in my mind and that’s undeniably flap steak. And since the name it’s a bit unappealing, you can add a bit of je ne sais quoi and call it Bavette like the French, or go south of the border and refer to it as Fajitas. I name it my favorite.

And I’m not the only one. Before becoming a darling of the hipster chefs in Brooklyn, it was known as the butcher best-kept secret.

The Bavette is similar to skirt and flank in that it comes from the less tender regions of the animal. Often cheaper than more popular cuts, this little underdog of the beef world has a wonderful meaty flavor and a fine texture.

It demands a good marinade, high heat quick grilling, a mandatory slice against the grain at an angle, and resting time.

This is a steak I would serve to my close friends, at boy’s night or perhaps the poker crew but I’m certain it would impress any diehard foodie hanging around.

My marinade of choice for Bavette is a whiskey, honey, coffee and garlic marinade. Salty and slightly bitter from the espresso powder but with a hint of sweetness from the honey, it enhances the already powerful flavor of the, if cooked right, charred but tender meat.

meatnoguy

Photo by Beatriz da Costa, styling by Erin Swift

I like to serve the steak, medium rare, sliced, with a caramelized onion marmalade I have learned to make at Ritz in London that I adore for its sweetness and silky texture and a simple but bright and slightly vinegary salsa verde. Nothing else.

salasaverde

Photo by Beatriz da Costa, styling by Erin Swift

 

Except, speaking of talented hipsters, a glass of my friend Sarah’s whiskey from Van Brunt Stillhouse in Red Hook, Brooklyn that I like to use for the marinade as well and of course good bread for mopping up the juices.

whiskey

van brunt stillhouse

If you cannot find Bavette steak, a flat iron, a flank or a skirt steak would be a beautiful and equally tasty substitutes.

A generous helping of coffee affogato could end the evening well, making this, in my mind, a perfect meal and for others a fun poker night.

If you want to learn more about how to prepare and cook steak come by May 31st at the Sustainable Food and Farm Expo at Audubon Greenwich where I’ll be doing 3 demonstrations during the day and using some great cheaper cuts from the skillful and renowned Fleisher’s Craft Butchery.

The Farm Expo will be from 10 am to 5 pm and it will showcase twenty food exhibitors and vendors plus talks, demonstrations, and tastings with a wide range of experts every thirty minutes. The Sustainable Food & Farm Expo is a production of Audubon Greenwich, the Fairfield Green Food Guide, and Strawberry and Sage.

For more information and to purchase tickets click on:

Sustainable Food and Farm Expo

Or get them directly at:

http://www.brownpapertickets.com/event/1568464

Whiskey Espresso Marinated Steak
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Recipe by Silvia Baldini—Flank demands a good marinade to add flavor but also to promote browning and crispness. It needs high heat quick grilling, a mandatory slice against the grain at an angle, and resting time. I marinate the meat for thirty minutes to two hours. For rare steak, I grill it on really high heat for three to five minutes on each side, depending on the thickness. Larger steaks might take longer.
Servings Prep Time
4 20 minutes
Cook Time Passive Time
15 minutes 2 hours
Servings Prep Time
4 20 minutes
Cook Time Passive Time
15 minutes 2 hours
Whiskey Espresso Marinated Steak
Yum
Print Recipe
Recipe by Silvia Baldini—Flank demands a good marinade to add flavor but also to promote browning and crispness. It needs high heat quick grilling, a mandatory slice against the grain at an angle, and resting time. I marinate the meat for thirty minutes to two hours. For rare steak, I grill it on really high heat for three to five minutes on each side, depending on the thickness. Larger steaks might take longer.
Servings Prep Time
4 20 minutes
Cook Time Passive Time
15 minutes 2 hours
Servings Prep Time
4 20 minutes
Cook Time Passive Time
15 minutes 2 hours
Ingredients
  • 1 2-3 pounds bavette or flank steak
  • 2 cloves peeled garlic
  • 2 tablespoons whiskey
  • 4 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 2 tablespoons Honey maple syrup
  • 2 tablespoons espresso powder brewed strong coffee can be substitute
  • 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
  • salt/ black pepper
  • olive oil
Servings:
Instructions
  1. Marinate the steak. Place the steak in a ziplock bag. Mix the garlic, whiskey, honey or syrup, soy, coffee and vinegar until well combined, then pour over the steak and close the ziplock bag. Chill for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours in the fridge. Return to room temperature before cooking.
  2. Remove the steak from the marinade. Put the marinade in a small sauce pan and reduce over medium heat, Bring to a boil then simmer until thickened. About 5 minutes. Reserve.
  3. Cook the steak. Season well with salt and pepper. And drizzle a little oil on it. Heat a grill pan or a regular pan over high heat. Grill the steak 4 to 6 minutes per side for medium rare.
  4. Let the steak rest for at least 5 minutes. Slice at an angle and against the grain. Drizzle the reserved and warmed marinade over the steak before serving.
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Caramelized Onion Marmalade
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Servings Prep Time
2 cups 15 minutes
Cook Time
45 minutes
Servings Prep Time
2 cups 15 minutes
Cook Time
45 minutes
Caramelized Onion Marmalade
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Servings Prep Time
2 cups 15 minutes
Cook Time
45 minutes
Servings Prep Time
2 cups 15 minutes
Cook Time
45 minutes
Ingredients
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons Butter
  • 4 large sweet onions cut in to thin slices
  • 2 sprigs thyme
  • 1 sprig rosemary
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 3/4 cup balsamic vinegar
  • salt and pepper
Servings: cups
Instructions
  1. In a large pan, heat the olive oil until shimmering add then butter and melt. Add the onions and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 15/20 minutes.
  2. Tie the bay leaves and rosemary and thyme together with kitchen twine. Add the herb bundle to the onions and cook over low heat, stirring a few times, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Sprinkle the sugar over the onions and cook, without stirring, until the sugar melts, about 5 minutes. Increase the heat to high and cook, without stirring, until an amber-brown caramel forms, about 6 minutes. Stir in the balsamic vinegar and simmer over low heat, stirring a few times, until the jam is thick, about 5 minutes. Discard the herb bundle. Season the jam with salt and pepper and let it cool to warm.
  3. MAKE AHEAD The caramelized onion jam can be refrigerated for up to 5 days. Serve warm or at room temperature.
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Salsa Verde
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Servings Prep Time
4 10 minutes
Servings Prep Time
4 10 minutes
Salsa Verde
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Servings Prep Time
4 10 minutes
Servings Prep Time
4 10 minutes
Ingredients
  • 2 cups flat leaves parsley
  • 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
  • 1 fillet anchovies
  • 1/4 cup drained and rinsed capers
  • 1/4 cup stale bread crumbs
  • 1/2 clove peeled garlic you can omit the garlic
  • 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
  • salt an pepper
Servings:
Instructions
  1. Place all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse until combined. You can also use a mortar or a hand held blender.
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Cool Moms

Anna Jarvis created the modern American holiday of Mother’s day in 1908 to honor her own mother. The Von Trap family, made their mom “One of Their Favorite Things”, and named a cheese after her. Marie Curie was a radioactive mama. In addition to breaking the gender barrier and discovering the two elements, radium and polonium, she raised two daughters and was honored with two Nobel prizes in physics and chemistry. I recently read in Food and Wine magazine that chef Mario Batali has made his mom blueberry crumble a staple at his dinner parties.

Next Sunday across America families will be looking for ways to celebrate their moms and all the women that mean something to them. Personally I’ll be honoring my mom and my mother in law. Both shared their love with me and passed on to me, among other things, their passion for cooking.

My mom was a remarkable lady. An egyptologist and a latin and greek scholar, she distilled in me a deep love for books, art, small tea sandwiches, and her vast gastronomical knowledge. If I had to pick a recipe that represents her the best, I would probably choose her baked peaches with an Amaretti cookies crumble. She used to bring them out at the end of simple dinner parties. She would serve them still slightly warm and nestled with all their sticky juices, on a pale green ceramic platter that would offset and complement the sun kissed yellows and pinks of the peaches. Each spoon was a combination of sweet, crunchy and caramelized heaven with a hint of almond and maternal love.

mom

Mom, August 1967

My mother in law is another extraordinary lady. She left Bologna to live in NYC in the 70’ where my husband was born. She lived in the West Village when the Village was the ” Village”. She travelled to Seattle on her own to teach Italian to US Air force students. She moved back to Italy and raised, in my opinion, two pretty handsome sons. She can grind a crossword puzzle like no one. Her knowledge in the kitchen is surpassed by no one. Before marrying my husband she gifted me with two large volumes of hand typed family recipes. I cherish these books and use them often. The recipes in these books are a collection of loved dishes, often served at family gatherings and a genealogical map of traditions passed on by mothers and grandmothers.

Betta

Betta, 1970

My kids and I adore her prosciutto and Fontina brioche. Pure golden perfection. Once in the oven the aroma of  baking buttery bread  pervades our house, making the wait almost unbearable. We eat it warm, right out of the oven. It makes a good dinner. I have been told my rendition is almost as good as hers, but not quite there yet.

While next Sunday, you don’t necessarily need to name a cheese after your mom, or present her with a Nobel prize, make sure you take time to honor her, spend time with her and cherish every precious second you have with her.  She deserves the love.

If you want to know more about splendid moms, my mom and these recipes, please tune in this Thursday the 7th at noon when I’ll be a guest on HansRadio for a Mother day special on Stir Crazy : Food Chat with Patty Gay .

http://www.hanradio.com

Baked Peaches with Amaretti crumble
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Servings Prep Time
6 20
Cook Time
45
Servings Prep Time
6 20
Cook Time
45
Baked Peaches with Amaretti crumble
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Servings Prep Time
6 20
Cook Time
45
Servings Prep Time
6 20
Cook Time
45
Ingredients
  • 6 medium peaches
  • 1 tablespoon chocolate powder
  • 2 large egg yolks
  • 8 onces dark chocolate chopped finely with a knife
  • 4 tablespoons granulated sugar
  • 1 tablespoon rum
  • 18/20 Amaretti cookies
  • 2 tablespoon Butter
Servings:
Instructions
  1. Wash the peaches in cold water, dry well and halve them with a pairing knife. Remove the pit.
  2. With a spoon remove some of the peaches pulp and form a space for the filling, reserve the pulp in a bowl.
  3. Crumble the Amaretti cookies in a food processor or by hand. Add to the peaches pulp.
  4. Using a Kitchen-aid or by hand cream the egg's yolks and sugar together until fluffy and light. Add to the cookies and the peaches. Add the cocoa powder and the dark chocolate. Add the rum. Mix well.
  5. Fill the peaches with the cookie and egg dough and place them on a baking sheet lined with baking paper. Bake in the oven at 350F for about 45 minutes. They can be served warm or room temperature.
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Fontina and Prosciutto Brioche
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Servings Prep Time
6 3 hours for levitation
Cook Time
40
Servings Prep Time
6 3 hours for levitation
Cook Time
40
Fontina and Prosciutto Brioche
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Servings Prep Time
6 3 hours for levitation
Cook Time
40
Servings Prep Time
6 3 hours for levitation
Cook Time
40
Ingredients
  • 2 cups flour 00
  • 9 tablespoons Butter softend
  • 3 large eggs
  • 1 cup fontina cheese cut in small cubes
  • 10 slices prosciutto cotto sliced thin
  • 1 envelope dry yeast instant works well
  • 4 tablespoons milk warm
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 large egg for shine
Servings:
Instructions
  1. In a Kitchen-aid fitted with a blade mix the butter, flour, eggs and salt, combine well.
  2. Activate the yeast in the warm milk. Add to the dough and mix.
  3. Butter and line a medium size oven proof baking dish. Spread half of the dough in it with the help of the blade of a knife. It's a very sticky dough so be patient and makes sure to reserve half of the dough to cover the top.
  4. Sprinkle with a layer of the fontina cheese cubed and lay the prosciutto slices on top. Cover with the remaining dough. Spread it even. Beat the remaining egg with a fork to make a wash, you can add teaspoon of water. With a brush paint the whole brioche evenly.
  5. Leave the brioche to raise in a warm place for 3 hours. Cover loosely with a canvas.
  6. Bake in a preheated oven at 350F for about 40 minutes. Slice and eat warm.
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The Art of Picnics

Location:

The park, the beach, a shady spot, your favorite secret corner. Like in real estate, location is everything when scouting for a picnic site. Keep it simple, easy to reach and close to a storm shelter.

 

Henri Cartier-Bresson's Sunday on the Banks of the Marne, 1938

Henri Cartier-Bresson’s Sunday on the Banks of the Marne, 1938

Semantic:

Picnic, or pique-nique, is of French origin, formed from piquer, the French for “to pick at food”, and nique meaning something small of no value.

The word picnic has existed in English for a long time, with different meanings including a kind of hat and a morally suspect club started by lord Chesterfied in 1748 that was associated with card-playing and drinking. No matter. 

Picnicking is what you make of it. I call mine alfresco dining and I pack  it as tasty and as fun as I can.

 

Thomas Cole's A Pic-Nic Party, 1846

Thomas Cole’s A Pic-Nic Party, 1846

Style:

The art of the picnic should require resolute rejection of plastic when it comes to food packing. Plastic makes everything smell funky and it’s, in my opinion, unbecoming. 
Paper, glass, cloth, cardboard, wax paper, are all beautiful alternatives.

 

Alcohol:

Don’t forget the bottle opener for the booze. Or better forget it and stick to champagne.

 

Packing:

At the beginning of times a picnic was a way to take a whole meal outside. Originally servants and coaches used to come at 4am to pick up a picnic hamper. Well I have news for you. Times have changed. Keep you packing light and organized. Select fresh ingredients and recipes that are easily sharable with your tribe. On the other hand, if you have kids in the group, by all mean, load them up.

 

Food:

In the end, packing good food is what a picnic it’s all about. It doesn’t have to be fine dining or complicated but it has to be memorable and refreshing. Jars salads are a great idea. Dressing goes on the bottom, veggies and other goodies get piled on top. Everything stays separate and dressing-free until you toss the salad together, you’ll never eat another soggy salad.

jarsalad_

A pressed sandwich is another fabulous idea. You can prepare it in advance, by cutting a good loaf of crusty bread, loading it with layers of greens, creamy cheese, salty cured meats, a good drizzle of strong olive oil and wrap it in lots of cellophane. Put it at the bottom of the picnic basket and weight it down with all the other goodies. Once you a get to your spot, ask the kids to sit on it. It will help you flatten the sandwich, and making sure all the flavors are properly combined while giving you the time you need to unpack in peace. Don’t forget scotched eggs and an aioli for dipping, I’m partial to my tarragon infused recipe, some pickled veggies for tanginess, and of course strawberries because it’s not a proper picnic with out sweet strawberries to stain your clothes.

All the recipes from my lecture at Olivette are now online.

The-Art-Of-Picnics

The Art Of Picnics at Olivette

Avocado, Lentils, Pistachio and Arugola salad
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Servings Prep Time
4 20
Cook Time
25
Servings Prep Time
4 20
Cook Time
25
Avocado, Lentils, Pistachio and Arugola salad
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Servings Prep Time
4 20
Cook Time
25
Servings Prep Time
4 20
Cook Time
25
Ingredients
For the salad
  • 2 bunches arugola salad washed
  • 2 cups puy lentils cooked
  • 1/2 cup cherry tomatoes halved
  • 1 whole avocado rubbed with half a lemon and diced
  • 1/2 cup pistachio nuts unsalted
  • 1/4 cup mint leaves chopped
  • 1/4 cup cilantro leaves chopped
For the dressing
  • 1/2 cup lemon infused olive oil substitute with olive oil and half a juice of a lemon
  • 1/4 cup aged dark balsamic vinegar
  • 3 tablespoons pistachio oil
  • salt an pepper
Servings:
Instructions
  1. Combine all the dressing ingredients in a large bowl and whisk well.
  2. Add all the salad components and with a rubber spatula, mix all the ingredients making sure to coat well. Serve room temperature.
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Pressed, layered Sandwich
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Pressed, layered Sandwich
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Ingredients
Vinaigrette
  • 1 small shallot
  • 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar pinot
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil extra virgin
  • salt and pepper
Sandwich
  • 1 loaf round bread focaccia or muffaletta
  • 4/8 tablespoons olive oil
  • 6/10 leaves lettuce
  • 8 onces Brie cheese cut in slices
  • 3/4 cup black olives pitted and roughly chopped
  • 1 large tomato sliced
  • 2 ounces anchovies in olive oil, drained. Optional.
Servings:
Instructions
  1. To make the vinaigrette, mix the shallot and vinegar in a small bowl, and gradually whisk in the oil with a fork. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
  2. Cut the bread horizontally into even top and bottom layers. Turn the top over, then drizzle olive oil all over the cut sides of both layers, using 2 or 3 Tbs of oil on each.
  3. Make layers of all the filling ingredients. First, completely cover the sandwich bottom with 5 or 6 lettuce leaves, then arrange the slices of Brie on top. Scatter the chopped olives and cover with the tomato slices in a single layer.
  4. Spoon about half the vinaigrette over the tomatoes, then separate the anchovy fillets and distribute evenly. Drizzle the remaining vinaigrette and the oil from the anchovy can all over the filling. Finally, replace the top layer of the bread to close the sandwich.
  5. Wrap the sandwich well with several layers of plastic wrap and place on a cookie sheet or pizza pan or tray. Lay another tray on top of the sandwich and center some heavy items to press and flatten the loaf (a heavy pan and a 5-lb bag of sugar, for example).
  6. Place the weighted sandwich in the refrigerator for at least a couple of hours or overnight. Before serving, remove the weight, unwrap the compressed sandwich, and let it come to room temperature. Cut into serving-size wedges or, as an hors d'oeuvre cut in thin parallel slices, and again into short, bite-size lengths. 1 large sandwich makes 8 large wedges or 24-hors-d'oeuvre-size pieces.
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A family feud.

The Easter Feast.

Forget Chopped, Bologna, Italy is were the real war is. Every year, my mother in law Betta and her Sister Giorgia have a food competition. Betta takes on Easter lunch and Giorgia rebuttals with the Christmas meal. I don’t know how far back this tradition dates, but  I can assure you , the competition is brutal.
Months before the meals, family recipes are sourced out from books, secret phone calls are made, and long consultations with other close family members and sometimes Guido, the local butcher and known gourmand, take place behind closed doors. Food creativity, presentation, and table settings  are taken in consideration. No detail is overlooked.

Me, I stay out of it. If consulted I just make up an excuse and change the subject. I have learn not to come between the sisters. But I reap the benefits. I, in fact, have had the pleasure to attend Betta’s Easter feast for 2 years now, and enjoy the creations while sinfully indulge in the verbal banter between the sisters.

And let me tell you,  Betta didn’t disappoint this year. The spread was spectacular, each dish was designed with a nod to local ingredients and family recipes. Some of my favorite dishes were: buttery and flaky parmigianini, handmade sting nettle tortelloni, inspired by a recipe from signora Patrizia’s arsenal, stuffed guinea hen, veal mosaic, and a stunning fruit aspic.

Betta also scored extra points not only with the menu design, that with the help of my brother in law, his girlfriends and pinerest, was designed to resemble a cootie catcher, but also with the place settings, which were hand carved by my father in law Gigi, from local walnut trees and esquisitely hand painted with everybody’s first names.

menu

Menu by Francesco and Irene

segnaposto

Place Setting by Gigi

segnapostoaugusot

Augusto and Valentina settings

Parmigianini are a tradition at Betta’s table. They are small, buttery, flaky, loaded with parmigian, crunchy biscuits. They are served as an aperitif. Once I locate them, I cannot stop eating them. They are evil and addictive. This time, they were accompanied by Crodino’s and Aperol.  These are bitter orange drinks meant to stimulate the appetite at the beginning of the meal.

parmigini

Parmigianini

crodini

Crodini and Aperol

I was told the sting nettles for the tortelloni were picked in the fall and frozen especially for this meal. They are mixed in, while making the dough, lending not only a beautiful green hue to the tortelloni, but also a very distinctive aromatic flavor, reminiscing of mint and spinach. The tortelloni were a work of art. The dough was thin, slippery and encasing fresh, just made, salty ricotta and  chopped sting nettles. Dressed in a creamy sauce reduced with parmigiano, these tortelloni are possibly one of the more remarkable pasta dish I have ever had.  I could taste the love, the passion and the  patience of the experienced  hands of Betta and Patrizia in each one of them.

ortica

Sting Nettles

Dough

Dough

Betta’s tortelloni

I loved the stuffed guinea hen. It’s a beautiful and decadent dish, perfect for company. The veal mosaic was silky and tender, I would say it is the elegant cousin of the meatloaf. It came at the table all dressed up and studded with emerald green pistachios and specks of delicate pink prosciutto.

mosaico

Veal Mosaico

There were many other side dishes, salads and desserts served. This was not a meal for the faint of heart. Once it was time for the grand finale, the fruit aspic, took the cake. Aspic is an old fashion and sentimental dish in Italy. Every family has a recipe and it appears at times, at the end of the meal in all it’s trembling glory. Some people might over look the aspic and go for the creamy and more chocolaty contenders, but, I just love the refreshing qualities of it. Betta aspic is loaded with berries, fruit and encased by a delicate sweet but tangy gelatin. Of course to be fair, I also tried the famous chocolate  sandwich cookies and all the other dessert. and enjoyed all of them, but the aspic is were my heart and taste buds were at.

Aspic

Aspic

cookies

Filling the chocolate cookies

I cannot wait to go back next year. I can not even imagine how Betta will top her self. Truth is, I cannot imagine what her sister Giorgia will do at Christmas. She sure has a tough act to fall. Although I  have heard through the grapevine, she has already started looking trough the books, and I can hear her wheels turning from here.

The sting nettel tortelloni, courtesy of Patrizia is posted below.

Betta and Gigi

Betta and Gigi, the hosts and winner of this year feast. For now.

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Holy Canederli!

I actually won Chopped.

Last night I competed  on Chopped, on Food Network, and  guess what, I won.

I dreamed to be on Chopped since the time I decided to take a crazy leap, change my career, my life, and enroll at Cordon Bleu.  I should leap more often, because I enjoyed every stressful second of it. The second I walked in to the Chopped Kitchen, the second I heard Mr. Ted Allen announced my name, the second I saw judges Maneet Chauhan, Marc Murphy, Chris Santos glare at me, the second I opened my first mystery basket. Then It’s all a blur. heart pumping, adrenaline going, knives action packed hour. And I won. Thank God! because the smile on my children face when I told them I actually won, was worth every heart pounding moment.

choppedgrab

 

By the way if you had not noticed, it’s April 1st  today, and wouldn’t you know it, the pantry in the Chopped kitchen was chock full of pranks and the ingredients in the mystery baskets were in disguise;  but after enduring April Fools’ Day pranks, a mystery basket of duplicitous ingredients, and a grueling twelve hours of competition against younger, up-and-coming chefs from the hot culinary scene in Charleston, South Carolina, I think I impressed the judges with my  dessert, sweet canederli.

I LOVE CANEDERLI! Canederli are bread dumplings, a regional specialty of northeast Italy where they are served as a first course or dessert. Considered part of ‘cucina povera’, they are made of simple and inexpensive ingredients including stale bread moistened with milk or cheese bound with eggs and a small amount of flour. They are not very known here in the US. But I grew up eating them. It’s a dish that comes from the north and the mountains of Italy, like me.  They are a tasty treat, that exemplifies my love for  “chic and simple comfort” cuisine.  A style rooted in making beautiful food to share with loved ones.

The sweet Canederli I made on Chopped, are based on my very simple but elegant recipe: Balsamic Strawberry Soup and Sweet Canaderli. It’s a very easy recipe and it’s a great dessert to end a meal. I always shape the canederli in advance, but poach them at the last moment. The aroma of the cinnamon, cardamon, clove and lemon fills my kitchen, reminding me of my precious times spent back home, exploring my loved Alps and Dolomites, with my family.

strawberrycanedrli

Savory Canederli are even more popular than sweet one. Some of my favorite are the ricotta canederli and speck, and the semolina ones. Ricotta canederli are lush, soft and delicious, when drowsed in brown butter.

canedrli

The speck and semolina’s are packed with flavor, saltiness and restoratives qualities, thanks to warm, rich broth they float in.

canedrlispeak

To make Canederli, you use what you have in your pantry, stale bread from the day before, a little semolina, flour or even old mashed potatoes. They are a great way to repurpose left overs. They are not hard to make, you just have to learn to shape them, it’s like making meatballs, fun for all.

I’m posting the recipes below. I hope you try to make them, perhaps you can then imagine you are in the Dolomites, rent the 1962 original “Pink Panther”, or  Roger Moore’s “For your Eyes Only and make a movie night of it.

Me, I’m going to celebrate my victory tonight, with a big bowl of canederli and my grinning kids and husband.

 

 

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Be My Honey

It’s sticky in my kitchen! I’m getting ready for the Ark of Taste Honey event next week at the Carriage Barn Arts Center in New Canaan.
I’ll be working with and tasting RedBee’s beautiful single-origin artisanal honey and getting some tips, on heirlooms and local foods from Analiese Paik of the Fairfield Green Food guide.

I truly love cooking with honey. The different floral bouquets create a vast range of aromas, enhancing and providing sweetness and deep complex flavors to many dishes.
For this event I’m making a carrot, honey ginger soup, and honey citrus soaked cakes. I chose these two recipes because I wanted to showcase the honey and show off the it’s versatility.
Both recipes are simple and heart warming. I also chose them because, they are not only easy to make, but  also beautiful, and they would be perfect, for a simple but elegant evening supper with loved ones.

The carrot, honey, ginger soup is silky, lush, and pure goodness. The sweetness and complexity of the red currant honey combined with the heat of the ginger and the tanginess of the lemon, make each bite spicy, sour and bright.

The honey citrus soaked cake is dense, moist, sticky and honey and citrus-scented. It’s one of those cakes loved by both adults and kids, and it’s very pretty baked in a loaf pan or in individual servings tins.

honeylemoncake

If you are in the mood for some extra work, I would also make baked fruit, drizzled with honey, to accompany this gooey lemony cake.  I have some rhubarb in my fridge and I’ll use it tonight; but crispy apples would be yummy too.

rhubarb

Ladle the soup in some pretty bowls, arrange the cake on a nice tray, throw some logs on the fireplace, and share your goodies with your honeys.

bowls

To share some love and get busy in the kitchen, check the recipes below.
If you want to read about the honey event at Carriage Barn Art Center click on the link below:

Feast on Art

To learn more about RedBee honey and Fairfield Green Food Guide click on :

RedBee Single Origin Artisanal Honey

FGFG

Carrot, Honey & Ginger Soup
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I love this soup. I used Red Bee currant honey. The smokey notes of cherry, and the undertones of anise, combined with the spiciness of ginger, and the sweetness of carrots, melt together creating a wonderful comforting soup. Good for the soul, and the belly.
Servings Prep Time
4 Servings 20 minutes
Cook Time
45 minutes
Servings Prep Time
4 Servings 20 minutes
Cook Time
45 minutes
Carrot, Honey & Ginger Soup
Yum
Print Recipe
I love this soup. I used Red Bee currant honey. The smokey notes of cherry, and the undertones of anise, combined with the spiciness of ginger, and the sweetness of carrots, melt together creating a wonderful comforting soup. Good for the soul, and the belly.
Servings Prep Time
4 Servings 20 minutes
Cook Time
45 minutes
Servings Prep Time
4 Servings 20 minutes
Cook Time
45 minutes
Ingredients
  • 2 Tablespoons Butter
  • 1 1/2 Pounds Carrots Chopped
  • 1 Whole Onion Chopped
  • 1 Clove garlic Chopped
  • 1 Piece Peeled Fresh Ginger, 4 inches long Chopped
  • 3 Sticks celery Chopped
  • 4 Cups stock Chicken or vegetable
  • 3 Tablespoons Honey
  • 1 Whole bay leaf
  • 2 Tablespoons fresh parsley or coriander Chopped
Servings: Servings
Instructions
  1. Melt the butter in to a heavy pot, stir in the carrots, onion, garlic, celery and ginger. Sweat gently over low heat for about 15 to 10 mines. Add a sprinkle of salt.
  2. Add the hot stock, stir in one tablespoon of honey, the bay leaf and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Simmer for about 10 minutes. It's done when the carrots are very soft. Fish out the bay leaf and discard.
  3. Blend in batches or with an immersion blender. Careful, hot liquids explode and burn! Push the soup through a sieve. Don't by pass this step. It's the difference between a mediocre soup and a silky, smooth velvety one. Plus nobody likes to be stuck with ginger fibers in between their teeth.
  4. Put the soup back on the stove, in a clean pot. Add some stock or water to thin it as needed. Add the double cream and the remaining two tablespoons of honey, squeeze a little lemon and reheat gently. Season to taste.
  5. Serve hot with a sprinkle of parsley or cilantro.
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Honey, Citrus Soaked Cake
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This cake is dense, moist sticky and citrus scented.
Servings Prep Time
6/8 people 25 minutes
Cook Time
40 minutes
Servings Prep Time
6/8 people 25 minutes
Cook Time
40 minutes
Honey, Citrus Soaked Cake
Yum
Print Recipe
This cake is dense, moist sticky and citrus scented.
Servings Prep Time
6/8 people 25 minutes
Cook Time
40 minutes
Servings Prep Time
6/8 people 25 minutes
Cook Time
40 minutes
Ingredients
For The Cake
  • 2 sticks Butter softened
  • 1 1/4 cup granulates sugar caster
  • 1 zest lemon organic
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 4 large eggs organic
  • 1/2 cup plain flour you can substitute one cup of grounded pistachio for a gluten free cake
  • 2 cups ground almonds
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
For the Honey Lemon Syrup
  • 1 zest and juice lemon grate zest , you can substitute an orange with the lemon
  • 1/2 cup Honey
Servings: people
Instructions
  1. Heat the oven at 350 F. Butter a 9 1/2 inch spring-form pan and line the bottom with parchment.
  2. Beat the, butter, sugar lemon zest and vanilla in a mixing bowl until white and fluffy. You can use a kitchen aid or by hand.
  3. Beat in the eggs one at the time. You can sprinkle in one tablespoon of the flour after each egg to tup the curdling.
  4. Gently fold the remaining flour and almonds, baking powder and a pinch of salt, until smooth.
  5. Spread one the base of the spring-form cake pan and bake until firm to the touch, about 40 minutes.
  6. Take the cake out from the oven and place on a wire rack. Leave in the cake pan to cool completely.
  7. While the cake cools off, make the honey lemon syrup. Gently warm the honey, lemon juice and zest in a small pan over low heat for about 5 minutes. It will be liquid but not boiling.
  8. Pour over the cake, then leave it to cool.
  9. You can bake a day ahead.
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Honey-Baked Rhubarb
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Print Recipe
Sweet and fragrant. Great for breakfast, dessert or directly spooned in your mouth.
Servings Prep Time
6 people 10 minutes
Cook Time
45 minutes
Servings Prep Time
6 people 10 minutes
Cook Time
45 minutes
Honey-Baked Rhubarb
Yum
Print Recipe
Sweet and fragrant. Great for breakfast, dessert or directly spooned in your mouth.
Servings Prep Time
6 people 10 minutes
Cook Time
45 minutes
Servings Prep Time
6 people 10 minutes
Cook Time
45 minutes
Ingredients
  • 10 stalks rhubarb cut in to 4 inches pieces
  • 1 large orange, juice and zest finely grate zest
  • 4 tablespoons Honey you might want to warm it up to make runny
Servings: people
Instructions
  1. Preheat the oven at 300 F.
  2. Place the rhubarb in a single layer on an oven proof dish lined with baking paper. Sprinkle the grated orange zest and pour the juice over it. Drizzle the honey and gently mix.
  3. Cover loosely with foil and bake in the oven for about 45 minutes or until fork tender.
  4. Leave to cool. It can bee kept with the syrupy juices in a sealed container in the fridge for a week.
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SILVIA’S TRAYS

SHARE FOOD

Silvia’s tray is a combination of my favorite recipes, ideas, stories and foods that I like to eat, cook and share. In the end, Silvia’s Trays it’s about my true passions.  Eating, cooking, family, friends, the people I cook for and I eat with and the relentless pursuit for balance,  peace and equality.

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